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First class religious centre in the
Mesoamerican world, the region of Cholula houses in more
than 120 temples, some of the most outstanding treasures
of popular art of the Americas. Cholula is located 90 km
to the east of Mexico City in the state of Puebla, at
the skirts of the Sierra Nevada. It’s
millenary history dates back to the 5th
Century A.D., when the development of the city began,
becoming, with time, a very powerful theocratic state
that would produce the largest pyramid in ancient Mexico.
With the arrival of the Spanish conquistadors, the
violence and lack of tolerance towards the local faith
was cruelly manifested in this city; part of the
population was massacred, the local idols thrown off
their pedestals and a new faith implanted in their
altars. It was in this manner that the 365 legendary pre-Hispanic
temples of the region where replaced, according to
tradition, by another 365 Christian temples, one for
each day of the year; recycling the rocks from the
destroyed indigenous altars, to build the temples of the
“new
faith“.
With the passing years the pyramids became hills that
blended with the volcanic landscape that surrounds them,
at the top of which were erected the temples of the
“new”
god who was brought by the Europeans. But these new
temples were neither Spanish nor indigenous; they were a
fusion of both cultures, an assimilation of ideas and
concepts that the inhabitants of the area interpreted by
recreating a new world in which they adored their
ancient gods, but in a different way than usual. In this
manner, the initial, sober constructions like the Misión
de Huejotzingo, which remind us of the romantic
Mediterranean, mix also with Gothic and Renaissance
elements. Afterwards, in other constructions, this
sobriety became diluted; the facades became saturated
with symbols, meanings, materials and colours in a game
in which their anonymous creators impressed their unique
expressions, conquering, through art, the religion that
had come from other places and that now became an
individual expression of the world and of life.
As if this region was destined to shelter
the gods’
houses, in Cholula and the surrounding towns, the
temples and bell towers succeed one another in a
colourful display; from the peaceful streets of the city
of Atlixco, and the chromatic chaos and impressive
façade of San Francisco Acatepec, to the immoderate
number of angels and sculptures inside the temple of
Santa María Tonantzintla and the monumental proportions
of the main atrium of Cholula; they are all a short
distance away from each other and can be visited in a
single day.
To arrive at Cholula, enter from the Mexico-Puebla
highway, taking the detour towards Atlixco; it takes
approximately one hour from Mexico City. Once you’re
there, you can visit the towns of Chipilo, known as
Mexico’s
little Italy, San Francisco Acatepec, Santa María
Tonantzintla and Cholula. If you have time, you can also
visit the tranquil spaces of the Ex-Hacienda de Chautla,
near San Martín Texmelucan, on the way back to Mexico
City. |


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